Economy

How Kenya grows the world’s tea and gives away the fortune

KaluaGreen How Kenya grows the worlds tea and gives away the fortune

On Fri­day night, I stood with the CITAM Men’s Chorale inside PCEA Kahawa Farm­ers dur­ing an overnight hymn ses­sion of praise and wor­ship. Some­where between the hymns, the name of the place began to preach to me. Kahawa is our word for cof­fee. The farm­ers were those first fam­i­lies. Yet the ground that once bore that name now holds hous­es, a mar­ket, tar­mac, and sewage ponds. The name still stands, even though the farm is gone.

I am not writ­ing to mourn Kahawa. Near­ly every Kenyan neigh­bor­hood keeps a name like this, a word that remem­bers a har­vest we no longer gath­er. What unset­tled me was not that the land changed hands. It was a pat­tern I encounter every­where, in our crops, coop­er­a­tives, and insti­tu­tions: we are so good at begin­ning things and strange­ly will­ing to let oth­ers fin­ish them.

Watch what we do with tea. In 2024, Kenya was ranked the world’s largest tea exporter, sell­ing about 625,000 tons, far more than Chi­na or Sri Lan­ka. Then the twist: we earned rough­ly what each of those coun­tries earned, near­ly 1.4 bil­lion dol­lars, while sell­ing far more leaf. We win the race, but our purse is no heav­ier. The rea­son is qui­et­ly humil­i­at­ing. About 99 per­cent of our tea leaves home in bulk, unbrand­ed, to be blend­ed and renamed abroad. Bulk tea can fetch as lit­tle as one sixth of what a brand­ed pack­et earns. We grow the crop, and a stranger names the cup.

The deep­er waste is not the price but the imag­i­na­tion. Near­ly all our tea is CTC, the crush-tear-curl black tea in every­day tea bags, where­as the world drinks many kinds: green, white, matcha, and the pur­ple tea Kenya bred in our lab­o­ra­to­ries. The demand is there, and so is the plant; we have sim­ply nev­er built the sys­tem to pro­duce and sell them.

Now, for the part that should make us laugh before it makes us think. Our politi­cians nev­er suf­fer from this dis­ease. The moment a poll shifts, just like the recent­ly released TIFA opin­ion polls, two lead­ers who called each oth­er unprint­able names last year will dis­cov­er they were always broth­ers and climb into one polit­i­cal bed with­out a blush, because 50 per­cent plus one is the only arith­metic they nev­er for­get. They fin­ish what they start. A coun­try that can build a coali­tion in a week­end can sure­ly fix a tea fac­to­ry in a sea­son. Our trou­ble was nev­er coor­di­na­tion. We have decid­ed the farmer is not worth coor­di­nat­ing with.

So what does fin­ish­ing look like? It begins with gov­er­nance: no fac­to­ry ris­es above its man­agers. Let coop­er­a­tives end the court cas­es qui­et­ly drain­ing farm­ers’ mon­ey, open their books, and answer to grow­ers, not bro­kers. Let the state com­plete the reforms it has brave­ly begun: the ortho­dox auc­tion, tax relief on pack­ag­ing, and the push into green, pur­ple, and spe­cial­ty teas. And let it hand fam­i­lies in places like Kahawa the title deeds they have chased for thir­ty years, because nobody plants a future on land they might lose. Let banks and young entre­pre­neurs build the roas­t­er­ies, blend­ing hous­es, and brands that keep the last, rich­est step here, as our pur­ple tea now wins French shelves. And let each of us reach for the brand­ed Kenyan pack­et, not the name­less one, so the mar­ket rewards the fin­ish­er. Lead­ers are remem­bered not for what they launch, but for what works after they are gone.

So my prayer that night soft­ened into a hope I now offer you. Let us keep the name and, this time, win back the sub­stance. Let us build farms, fac­to­ries, and val­ue chains stur­dy enough to out­last us, the kind our grand­chil­dren will bless in 2125 rather than pave over. The cof­fee in Kahawa’s name can be a seed, not a head­stone. Think Green, Act Green.

KaluaGreen
About Dr. Kalua Green

He is the Chief Stew­ard of Green Africa Group, a con­glom­er­ate that was envi­sioned in 1991 to con­nect, pro­duce and impact var­i­ous aspi­ra­tions of human­i­ty through Sus­tain­able Mobil­i­ty & Safe­ty Solu­tions, Eco­pre­neur­ship & Agribusi­ness, Ship­ping & Logis­tics, Envi­ron­men­tal Pro­tec­tion Ini­tia­tives, as well as Hos­pi­tal­i­ty & fur­nish­ings sectors

MY35: LET EVERY FAMILY GROW KENYA’S FUTURE

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